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The Greek Capital

Craggy coves and sandy bays make up the resplendent mix that is the coastline of Athens. Thus at the close of an fall afternoon, I found myself with a rather agreeable dilemma: where to go to relax bones still aching for a last splash of warm weather. For Athens offers something that many continental destinations cannot: a shoreline of over 60 kilometers dotted with beaches many a Greek island would envy.

During the off-season, the coasts of Attica still have a magnetic allure, as I discovered when taking a dip into a setting sun across the Vouliagmeni Bay. For those looking for rejuvenation in azure seas ready to turn golden as the sun sets, bathing off one of the coastline's public or private beaches does not let you down.

With ocean spray still on my skin, I sat at Sardelaki, a eatery whose Mediterranean fare is as good as the spectacular view of the inlet it sits on. In a nod to bygone eras, the meze is served on large wooden trays.

Athens is as renowned for its elevations as its coastline: natural elevations within view of the ancient citadel that make it a treasure trove for amblers when the weather cools. For those who want to escape a city that extends across almost 500 square kilometers, these rocky outcrops – holders of fabulous names such as the Hill of the Nymphs and the Muses' Hill – are a must-see.

In my opinion, this historic city is Europe’s most soulful and magnificent.

If you reach the top of Lycabettus Hill, the city’s highest point, either on foot or on the cable railway, the reward is a spectacular vista of the whole Argo-Saronic Gulf and the islands beyond.

If you want to stay centrally, the ancient Plaka district remains the best base. The traditional a classic hotel hotel has rooms looking on to the northern face of the Acropolis from about £120 B&B. In the vicinity, Zorbas is a preferred restaurant with locals and serves the juiciest lamb cutlets. With vistas of the Acropolis, Athens’ elevated dining spots are highly evocative and perfect for mild fall nights – for a real treat visit Kuzina or the award-winning Macris.

Palermo

Believe Neapolitan pizza is the last word in pizza? Reconsider. In Palermo they prefer Sicilian pizza, a soft, well-risen slice of bread topped with rich, onion-laden sauce and sprinkled with caciocavallo cheese and herbs. Hearty, filling and comforting, it’s sold in bakeries, kiosks and stalls all over the city (a central street in the old town usually has multiple sellers).

We sample it at a stand on a central square, near where we’re lodging. Panineria Chiluzzo often has big lines, but they move quickly as employees serve slices of sfincione, as well as rice balls and chickpea fritters. There are a couple of seats under the trees outside, but we eat as we walk into town along tight a street. This is a nice walk in October but wouldn’t always be in summer. As heatwaves swept Europe this year, the mercury in Palermo reached 40C in the shade. At the end of July one sunbaked corner hit a record 70C at the surface.

We stroll the city and enjoy how its long history is written in its architecture.

Now, as the climate rise to 75F by the afternoon, we can explore the city and appreciate how its long history is written in its roads. Passing baroque and art nouveau palaces, and a famous coffee shop, the city’s oldest coffee roastery, we admire the unique architecture of the 12th-century church of San Cataldo; Piazza Pretoria, with its Renaissance fountain, installed under colonial times; and the grand church, constructed on the location of a ninth-century mosque.

On the way back we take a side trip to the local market, the origins of which also date back over 1,000 years. Some criticize its touristification, but it is still lively and highly dramatic. Feeling brave, we stop for a classic spleen sandwich, which is surprisingly OK, with its slightly sweet “meat” set off by cheese topping. The stallholder is particularly proud of his grilled goat’s intestines but, I’m sorry, no amount of seasoning can make those a treat for me.

We’re happy to head back to quieter the old quarter, the former Arab quarter to the eastern part, which was damaged in the World War II and languished for decades before being revitalized this era. a boutique hotel (ocean-facing doubles from €161 B&B) is a four-room guesthouse with lots to see nearby. Up the street is Palazzo Butera, a baroque grand building renovated and relaunched in recently to display the Valsecchi art collection, which features works by contemporary artists and Andy Warhol.

Next day we walk a short distance to the city's gardens, with its record-breaking multi-trunk fig tree. Songbirds are singing their hearts out as the light shines. Soon we’ll be in London, the clocks will go back and winter will begin. We relish a last week in the light.

Vienna

While mourning the close of the warm season and spending time at beach bars and swimming areas on the tributaries of the river, I’m now seeking a different color. Vienna is a city of green spaces and well-kept lawns, meadow sweeps and forest zones, which swap their green canopy for a rusty amber and ochre glow the locals call golden autumn.

I leave behind the grandiose architecture and cobblestones of the historic centre. South-west of it, Schloss Schönbrunn Park extends from the magnificent royal palace, where the gilt isn’t limited for the interior, and makes its way into pathways of towering bronzed hedgerows and curved walkways that go to the butter-yellow palace.

To the east, in the city’s a large park, I stroll beneath the shady trees of the main avenue, an path that’s almost five kilometers long and centuries-old. On the edge of the park, the retro-styled a trendy hotel (doubles from €78 B&B) is a ideally located retreat.

In a city with hundreds of urban farms (thanks to a long-standing commitment to promoting parks and fostering local culture), autumn brings a feast of seasonal ingredients on restaurant offerings. Pumpkin cream soup is the seasonal staple – best devoured in a traditional Beisl such as the decorated Am Nordpol 3 – and accompanied by a Wiener Schnitzel.

Vienna is a city of green areas and gardens that swap their green cover for a rusty amber and warm hue.

Little known, the capital is the only European capital to grow vintage within its urban area, with 1,723 acres of vineyards. There are 14 designated urban paths, known as walking routes. Track 1 takes you through the vintner lands of Nussdorf. Relax in a hillside Heuriger such as a local winery, sipping a zesty white wine with a Brettljause (a platter of cold cuts and dairy), while soaking up the sublime city vista.

The days are getting briefer, but now is the perfect time to stroll among the city's stately palaces, galleries and historic abodes – a {cultural crop|